Production
Kyoto Fine-Pattern Dyeing

Kyoto fine-pattern dyeing is a form of stencil resist dyeing basically the same as that used in Kyoto yuzen. There are many stages in the production process and it may take from one to two months to complete a piece of this finely patterned cloth. In Japan the technique of using a rice-paste resist and dyeing is extremely old. The concept of resist dyeing did not exist in Europe where historically cloth was dyed using a copper printing plate technique. In fact, the existence of resist dyeing was not known until cotton cloth from Java was imported into Europe during the 18th century.
The stencil paper is made from handmade Japanese paper and the patterns are cut using a variety of sharp tools. The resist is, of course, made from rice. This form of resist dyeing was certainly being carried out during the 17th century and can be verified by a scene of resist being applied in a painting done by the artist Kano Yoshinobu(1552-1640). This advanced technique of stencil resist dyeing is unrivaled anywhere. Nowadays, photo-sensitive stencil paper is being used and the dyeing principles used to produce the beautiful multicolored scarves and ties made in Italy owe much to the tradition of stencil resist dyeing in Japan. The origins of the techniques of textile printing in general use today, can, in fact, also be traced back to Japan's traditional stencil dyeing techniques.

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Stage One
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Stencil Cutting: The stencil paper is actually made from three or sometimes four sheets of handmade Japanese paper. One sheet is laid on another so that the grain of the paper alternates. It is then coated with persimmon tannin and dried. The pattern is cut out using a variety of sharp tools appropriate to the design.

Stage Two
Mixing the Colors: Dyestuff is added to a yuzen rice-paste resist and stirred until the color is completely mixed and the required color is made. The color is checked by steaming a sample.

Stage Three
Stenciling: A plain resist or a color resist is forced through the stencil with a spatula onto the cloth, which is stretched out flat. The stencil is moved a little at a time until the whole 12 meter length of the cloth is covered with the pattern.

Stage Four
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Background Dyeing: The background is dyed in two ways. The color is either applied using a color resist, or with a brush.

Stage Five
Steaming, Washing: The cloth is placed in a steam chamber and steamed for 20 minutes to one hour, in order to fix the dye. The cloth is then washed to remove the resist and any excess dye, spun and dried.

Stage Six
Finishing: Finally, the cloth is steamed and stretched.